Sailing Seabelle Seabelle

19-21st August 2023: Passage to the Fort Ross: we hit ice!

Mon, 21 Aug 2023 00:00:00 +0000

The alarm goes off at 4am and peeling myself out the cosy bed is bed is hard. Catching the end of the storm, we face strong headwinds and tack our way up Admiralty. It is about 50 miles on a straight line to the corner with Lancaster Sound and it will take us the whole day to get there. There is still a lot of residual sea after the storm. With 2m swell and winds in the face, Seabelle is rock and rolling and not before long, I find my head in the bucket. To make things worse, I picked up the bout of flu that little Dean (SY Sentijn) and Jossiah (SY Caprivi) had battled in Arctic Bay, leaving me with no energy and the wish to crawl below and die. Luckily, Calin thrives in those upwind conditions and allows me to remain in bed while he’s having fun racing Caprivi and Sentijn who have caught up with us. Every now and then, he come below to give me an excited update.

When I finally find the energy to get up and relieve Calin, the winds are very confused and the night is a battle of the mind. One moment, it’s blowing 15-17knots from our stern and I unfurl the genoa. 10 mins later, the wind drops to 5 knots and all the sail flaps. I lift the daggerboard, furl in and motor. 15mins later, we heal with 17 knots and again, so I stop the engine, drop the daggerboard and unfurl. Only for another 10mins. Daggerboard, furl, start motor. And again and again. Eventually I give up trying and with much frustration, we motorsail throughout most of the night. As the light wind is dead behind, I struggle to keep the main sail from flapping. As I focus on adjusting the traveller to find the best angle for the sail, I suddenly hear a big bang following but a loud crunch under the keel. The boat vibrates as if we were experiencing an earthquake and I know straightaway I’ve hit ice. My heart sinks and I feel powerless. The couple of seconds it takes for the berg to pop out aft feel like an eternity. The berg is the size of a Harley, big enough for major damage to our centerboard, left locked half way, shaft and rudder. Calin jumps out through the hatch, wide awake in the middle of his sleep. With the sinking feeling that irreversible damage was made, we check everything. The bilges are dry and there is no water coming in. Steering hard to port then starboard is still smooth and functional so the rudder is fine. There is no vibration or unusual sound to the engine so the shaft and prop are fine. With ultimate relief, we bring the centerboard all the way up so it has not been bent. The only damage sustained is the outer sleeve of the line preventing the centerboard to come up has been shredded through the clutch leaving exposed the thin dyneema core, an easy fix luckily. We suspect that we rode over the the berg with the centerboard, deflecting its trajectory and thus saving our prop and rudder. Shaky but tremendously relieved, I continue my watch standing high on the aft lockers and not taking my eyes off from the sea ahead for even one second. What are the odds that I hit the only piece of ice I’ve seen in my entire watch.

The air temperature has dropped to 1.4 degree and the sea temp to 0.4. The water pump has been sounding a bit weird and when we check our water tank through the clear inspection hatch, we notice it has partly frozen! Large ice bits are floating about so we crank the heater to max in the hope of warming up the floor. It doesn’t really work but at least, we have a super warm and cozy interior for a few hours!

Coming from Pond Inlet, Thindra has now reunited with us and so together with Caprivi and Sentijn, we continue our way through Lancaster Sound and into Prince Regent Inlet. Along the way, under a cotton-like textured sky, we come across a large pod of whale. We sail amongst them watching their blow from afar. They are all around us and we sail amids their blow and flicking tails. They have no dorsal fin and we suspect they are bowhead whales.

12-18th August 2023: Arctic bay – waiting out the Lancaster storm

Fri, 18 Aug 2023 00:00:00 +0000

We ended up spending almost a week in Arctic Bay, much longer than what we had anticipated. The storm in Lancaster Sound has been ferocious and the wind has been blowing consistently here in the bay. We eventually had to reposition to the other side of the bay to get protection when the wind shifted south easterly. For days it was blowing over 30 knots with record gusts well over 40. Fortunately our anchor held well throughout and with an anchor alarm set, we didn’t feel the need to stay up and do watches. Meanwhile, the wind was blowing even harder in Lancaster sound and Ugly Betty, tucked on the northern side of it in Burnett Inlet recorded gusts of 67 knots.

On the plus side, all this high wind broke up the sea in Lancaster and pushed it all the way west, leaving the strait clear when we are ready to go. As the wind eased in Arctic Bay but still blowing too much in Lancaster, it 's been frustrating to sit tight knowing the passage is finally clear of ice and wouldn’t remain so for long. But through the hurricane sounds of the rigging, it hasn't been all bad. Actually, we've been having a pretty good time here. We caught up regularly with Caprivi and Sentijn and we even had a game night on here which was really good fun. Tonight is our last night and we got together on the beach around a lovely bonfire. Jade from Caprivi baked a delicious chocolate brownie cake in her cast iron pot over the flames and we ate it on rock slates found on the beach. What a lovely bunch of people and hanging out with them made being stuck here much more bearable and entertaining.

We also went hiking with Caprivi and Sentijn (and half the village kids!) to the top of the hill for a nice view of the bay. Calin and I continued on to the little settlement on the other side. Not much of a settlement, more like the depot of snowmobiles and sleds. We met an 80 years lady who lives here in the summer with her husband and 103-year mother, she invited us into her rudimentary tent and we got a glimpse of her summer lifestyle. The tents are insulated but have no heating and other than a small cooking stove, it only contains a large tapchain covered with seal skins, making it somehow quite cozy and inviting. During the whole day, the sweet and genuinely inquisitive children aged 7-15 accompanied us and provided us with fun entertainment and an interesting insight of their inuit ways – all from a child perspective. I was amazed by their free spirit and sense of curiosity as well as their toughness. After all, hiking in the freezing cold in no more than a couple of layers (I had 4 and a hat!), no socks and old trainers full of holes is no mean feat for a child. Going for a mini dip in the freezing cold also seemed more fun to them than an amazing achievement.

That evening we carried on to what they call here “the Point” (at that stage, the kids were too tired to carry on and went home) where the women of the village observe the hunt of their husband from the shore and wait out patiently, sometimes hours, for the narwal catch to be brought in. Most of them are quite chatty and all welcoming. We find out that tusks are worth big money and a 3m one can fetch $9000 (about 6000€). Carcasses are littered on the beach, sometimes only the tusk and skin removed. It seems they dry up the skin to make jerky strips and use very little of the meat for their own consumption. Most of it is given to the dogs, if that.. As a wildlife lover, it is hard to observe the distressing hunting technique, chasing the animal for hours, harassing it with riffle bullets so it can’t take deep breaths at the surface, making it slow and dizzy and harpooning it with a floating buoy so it can’t go down anymore and can’t sink when dead. Perhaps I would find it all ok if I was living here and relying on that tusk cash to survive, it is not for me to judge their ways of survival. Somewhat relieved, the hunt tonight is unsuccessful and we hitch a ride back to town.

Somehow, time in Arctic Bay went by reasonably fast and we didn’t get to do any maintenance projects that we had envisioned. But we did catch up on a lot of sleep, and it felt wonderful to allow ourselves some very long guilt-free sleep ins. We lost our Starlink internet connection and it wasn’t easy to diagnose the problem without the possibility of googling what could be wrong. Calin eventually figured it was an issue with the cable. Interestingly, having the Starlink and access to unlimited fast internet wasn’t something we had planned for when we started the trip in England. We were quite happy to be off the grid with just the Iridium for weather, ice charts and the occasional basic updates to family and friends. But we have to admit that it became a little pleasurable treat whenever we would set it up an anchor. Miraculously, and beyond all hope, Calin managed to source a 2^nd hand cable by chatting with a friendly clerk at the supermarket. Arctic Bay only has about 1000 inhabitants but we are a long way from the old image of inuits wearing seal skins and ox furs and using dogs as their sole transportation to move from one isolated location to another. In 2023, everyone moves around with pickup trucks and snowmobiles in the winter and social connection via mobile phones and internet access is as normal as anywhere else in the western world.

We cleared in at the local police station – the RCMP (the Royal Canadian Mounted Police) and this was the best custom & immigration we’ve ever experienced! We were welcomed by two super friendly officers, Mark (Long) and Deano, totally incredulous to dust off their entry stamp for the 3^rd time in one week. It is rare for boats to make Arctic Bay their first stop in Canada (most clear in at Pond Inlet) and the stamp was brand new. We also had to temporary import our riffle and both looked at it with a sparkle in the eye like a kid receiving a new toy at Christmas – it is a new shiny riffle and they are used to old rusted weapon. We chatted for a very long time and they gave us an insight of the other side of the local community, the harsh reality of a bleaker one. Everyday they have to deal with bootlegging and alcohol related violence, something that ultimately the children suffer the most from. It is hardly surprising. The governmen in the 25 communities of Nunavut at various degrees and here it is prohibited to sell and buy locally. One can only buy alcohol online through the committee and this privilege is taken away with misbehaviour, spurring a nasty black market where a 1l bottle of vodka can sell for CAD $800.

Despite the difficulty of dealing with recurring infractions and violence, our two officers demonstrate an incredible amount of patience and empathy and have built strong ties with the community. Every day, children come to the station and after diligently mimicking the sergeant salute as instructed by the officer, they are given a stamp on their hand and skip back outside with stickers and smiles, a candid ritual that delivers lightness and giggles for all.

The weather is finally clearing and we'll catch the end of the storm tomorrow. Next hurdle: the Bellow strait!

12 August 2023- we made it to Canada!

Sat, 12 Aug 2023 00:00:00 +0000

The rest of the passage is rather uneventful until the Canadian shores and we settle nicely in an approximate 4 on/4 off routine. We are even blessed with a day of blue sky and sunshine and the occasional iceberg on the horizon for entertainment. Thindra has been saling/motoring alongside, about 2.5 miles on our starboardside and it’s been fun “racing” them and having some radio contact every now and then. We split as they go south to Pond inlet while we make the decision to carry on to Arctic Bay. There is a severe weather approaching Lancaster Sound and we need to seek shelter for a few days. Pond Inlet has just opened from the ice but Navy Board Inlet on the west side of Bylot island is still blocked with ice. We don't want to risk being stuck in Pond after the storm or waste precious time to go back around the east of Bylot. Rather, we prefer to cover as much ground as possible.
After the day of sunshine, the fog returns with a vengeance. But so does the wind and it's nice to finally put some sails up after too much motoring for our liking. With 15kt of wind right behind us, we sail gently westward with full main up and genoa poled up. We have been so pleased with our genoa. It is a super heavy sail but its range is astonishing. With the ability of poling it out in light stern winds and furling it partly in higher winds, we can cover a very wide range of wind speed and direction and more often than not, it saves us the hassle of hoisting the spinnaker.

Canada greets us with a very shy ray of sunshine, and lifts the fog just enough to see the snowy patches along the northern coast of Bylot Island. The ice charts have shown a lot of ice through Lancaster Sound, in its whole width from 6 miles from Bylot northern shore. As we hug the coastline, we can see the ice far on our starboard side and keep a vigilant eye for the odd berg.

By the evening of the 11^th, the fog lifts completely and the wind picks up considerably as we enter Admiralty Inlet. When I come out on deck, we still have full canvas out although it’s blowing 30-35knots from our starboard quarter. We immediately proceed to furling the genoa and reef the main sail. Quite a hectic procedure in high winds as we need to gybe to hide the headsail behind the main to unload the pressure and furl then turn the boat slightly more into the wind to reef the main. I glimpse at the anemometer and notice gusts of 45 knots. I can barely hold the helm. Steering becomes difficult with the overloaded sail. The whole procedure certainly gets my heart pumping as the adrenaline shoots through the skies. It is both scary and exhilarating at the same time. Never felt more alive! My gloves didn’t do a good job and my fingers became frozen to a point of throbbing pain. Finally, with 2 reefs in the main sail, we settle much more comfortably at 4 kts speed. Seabelle is going great despite a 2m swell.

As we turn into Adam’s sound early in the morning, the wind eases right off and the clouds make way to a beautiful blue sky and sunshine. Next minute, we find ourselves amidst a narwhal hunt. About a dozen outboard boats zoom right past us to enclose their prey. When nothing comes of it and they head back into the fjord, they all come alongside us and say hi, giving us a very warm welcome. More and more groups appear as we approach Arctic Bay. I can see a narwhal grasping for air through the binocular and the harassment from the hunters is hard to watch. Hopefully we get to see some of those unique tusked whales alive while we wait out for weather here.

As we pull into Arctic Bay, S/Y Caprivi and S/Y Sentijn are already here. We drop the hook by 9am and although catching up on sleep seems like the sweetest notion, we need to do an oil change while the engine is still warm. Cruel burden but a necessary one to keep our indispensable Yanmar happy.

A deep but short snooze later, we proceed to hitch a ride to the petrol station at the edge of town. There is no fuel dock here, and we need to bring our empty jerrycans. We are amazed by the friendliness and helpfulness of the local inuit people. Everyone smiles, engages in conversation and goes the extra mile to give us a hand. A very first impression indeed!

09 August 2023 – through the ice and half way to Canada!

Wed, 09 Aug 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Although the shock of Petter leaving so suddenly is still fresh, we are feeling good today. Leaving Uppernavik, we mentally prepared ourselves for the challenge ahead: a large band of sea ice in the middle of Baffin Bay that been drifting from the North at various density - from 7/10 to the south to 1/10 to the north. We first headed north of Uppernavik in the hope to find the first available gap, hopefully at no more than 3/10 density. We were lucky to have the reports of S/Y Caprivi and S/Y Sentijn with the location where they went through 2 days before and the ice charts and NASA satellite image were also very helpful. We’ve been motoring on and off and quite foggy. A fog bow, a interesting formation when, similar to a rainbow, an colorful arc forms above fog, remained persistant for many hours.

This morning at 07.00am, I wake up Calin to take the sails down. Ahead of us, lies a bed of sea ice. The fog just lifted and a beautiful rainbow appears. It is eery and magical. The wind has died and the sea is calm. First the sea ice arrives in the form of scatterred large floes. But as we proceed on through, the space between the floes lessens more and more. Just about where we had marked the gap seen on the satellite image 2 days ago, we see a gap. From the sea level, it is hard to tell despite excellent visibility. The narrow passageway is not much wider than the beam of Seabellehe but with slow and cautious speed, Calin steers us around tfloes skillfully and calmly. Although the ice is getting thicker and thicker, we can just about weave our way through without the use of ice poles that I have ready on the foredeck in case I need to push ice. The sight is mesmerizing as ice surrounds us at what we estimate 6/10. Just as we think we’ve gone through and the worst is over, the fog comes back down and so does the ice. Luckily, it’s a little more spread out now and although a little hairy with the poor visibility, we come out on the western side without any new dent in the hull. That was a big hurdle and we’re stoked to be through successfully. 3 days to Canada!

7 august 2023: Uppernavik - saying goodbye to Greenland and Petter

Mon, 07 Aug 2023 00:00:00 +0000

The dinner was a lot of fun, it’s always enjoyable to hear people’s background and tales of the sea. But the good feeling didn’t last long. As we were cleaning up, Petter lets out that he’s leaving tomorrow to get back to his girlfriend in Oslo due to personal reason. Boom, just like that. Tomorrow, seriously?? How can we possibly find another crew member with that time frame? We always thought we could rely on Petter and that if he had committed to the entire trip all the way to Alaska, we could trust that he would do just that. We are very disappointed, somewhat betrayed even. What a letdown. Calin particularly valued his friendship with him and we would have never thought he would leave us in the deep end like this. With little explanation, his decision is irreversible, and no attempt to reach a compromise or leave at a later stage is made. We wondered if we should abandon the project. After going through ice in Svalbard, we always said that we need at least another crew member, if not 2 for the NWP. That it wouldn’t be safe to do it just the 2 of us. It is not just going through the ice, it is also the long passage through the possibly treacherous Berring Sea. But the thought of quitting went as quickly as it came. We have invested way too much time, money and energy to make this dream come true, abandoning is not an option. Whatever it takes, we will attempt. It’ll be more perilous and certainly more exhausting but I comfort myself in remembering that others are also doing it undercrewed and some have even done it single handed.

We make a pitstop in Uppernavik for refuelling and provisioning and by early afternoon, we are ready to go. The goodbyes are somewhat awkward, the friendship damaged if not broken. With a mix feeling of disappointment and excitement of the challenges ahead, we cast the lines feeling stronger and more determined than ever. Team Seabelle is thinner but still thriving, Canada here we come! (But first, let's go through the ice west of Greenland in Baffin Bay!)

03-6August 2023: Umiatsugssur Ilua anchorage south of Uppernavik – a NWP gathering!

Sun, 06 Aug 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Early in the morning, the fog lifted just on time to reveal the magnificent entrance of the fjord with sheer rust coloured cliffs towering above us and small icebergs lingering about. Softened by the gentle morning light, the mountainous landscape is spectacular and offers an exciting arrival after 3 days of grey and little visibility.

We make new friends with Jade, Ben and Jossiah on S/Y Caprivi and John, Kara and little Dean on S/Y Sentijn. All are very welcoming as we search for a good spot to anchor. Soon Thindra and Uggly Betty pull in and we find ourselves amidst a fantastic NWP gathering of like minded souls on the quest of a passage west through the ice. I seize the opportunity of a windless evening to face my fear of height and go up the mast. It is likely that I will have to go up when the time comes to spot a way through the packed ice while Petter would push the cumbersome floes and Calin would remain at the helm. It is amazing how mental preparation allows you to go beyond your limitations. I manage to turn fear into exciting adrenaline and end up feeling pretty relaxed observing a wandering arctic fox on the beach from the comfort of the 2^nd spreader.

The anchorage is absolutely stunning and we are grateful to Ugly Betty for their recommendation (they first called it “secret anchorage” – no longer secret! Then “Lost drone bay” as they lost 2 drones there!).
We benefit from lovely weather with little wind and good sunshine. Finally I get to set up my yoga mat on deck for some well needed stretches and best of all, I get to inflate my kayak and paddle up the fjord. The soaring mountains above me convey a humble sense of smallness. With my favourite playlist in my ears, my heart bursts of happiness as I glide around scattered icebergs with an indelible grin. Alone in untouched wilderness, I’m in my happy place.

The water here is crystal clear and so inviting that I embrace a polar plunge. The water is about 4 degrees and sure is refreshing. I only manage few brasstrokes but feel pretty proud to have overcome the mind barrier of the cold. I feel incredibly energized afterwards and vow to do it more often and last a little longer each time.

Over 20 of us gather around the bon fire for a delightful social afternoon as we get to know more of each other and share tales of previous adventures. We get to meet 2 more of the rowers that intend to row through the NWP, an incredible and ambitious expedition starting in Pond Inlet. They are luckily being towed behind Ugly Betty from Iceland to Pond, saving them time, energy and hypothermia. They kindly share some of their excess dry food portion and the afternoon turns into a great (and easiest!) pot luck dinner by the fire.
As we are all waiting for the right weather to start our passage west to Canada and finding ways to kill time, the rowers were also super kind to let us all have a go at rowing their 44ft purpose built open rowboat. They plan on rowing 2 hours on/2 hours off and after rowing for just 20mins, I can’t imagine the endurance, both mental and physical, one needs to continue those shifts relentlessly for 2000 miles – or 2 months. Not to mention the wet and tight cabins, with no heating to warm up or even just dry up. It is almost inhuman and I feel once again honoured and humble to meet such inspiring souls and incredibly courageous human beings.

We also took the opportunity to try our new gun purchased in Nuuk. We put a target on the rocks, away from the beach and each take turn to shoot. Hopefully we never have to use it, but over here and more so through the NWP, the theat of a polar bear attack is real and it’s almost compulsory, if not strongly recommended to carry a gun. Looking at how long it takes me to reload after firing, I sure hope the bear attacks us is slow motion.

The fishing hasn’t been successful in this anchorage but we enjoyed some handpicked mussels. Every night, the beach is visited by a couple of arctic foxes, one white and one brown – we suspect mother and son. It’s so joyful to watch them leap and play around like small puppies.

A large berg has been slowly drifting into the bay. Sentijn and Thindra had to reposition – just on time before their anchor chain would have gotten caught under. Everyone has been keeping a close eye on it, some doing anchor watches at night. Ugly Betty has been consistenly harassed by it and are the first to leave the anchorage.

As Sentijn and Caprivi leave to go across, Walkabout turns up! We have invited them and Thindra for dinner, it should be a fun night!

01 August 2023: the magic of Disko bay

Tue, 01 Aug 2023 00:00:00 +0000

No word can describe the magic of this landscape. Under a deep blue sky and warming sunshine, we left Ilulissat early this morning and following the waterway between Disko island and the mainland north of Ilulissat, we weave our way through hundred of icebergs of all sizes and shapes all carved by Ilulissat glacier. There is absolutely no wind and we have to motor unfortunately. On the positive side, the reflection of icebergs is out of this world. Standing on the bow, I am submerged by all this beauty, noting every shade of blue in the ice, every shadow in the sculpted edges, every ripple in the water. I watch silently as we glide through the morning stillness, taking it all in with watery eyes and a deep sense of happiness. This is exactly what I had dreamt of seeing with my own eyes. Occasionally, a curious seal pops its heads out of the water right beside us. A little further, dozens of excited seabirds flap and swoop above an equally active pod of seals – a characteristic sign of a feeding. So much life around us that somewhat contrast with the baren purity of the ice.

With the engine going, we benefit from real hot water and surrounded by icebergs, I can’t think of a better setting for a shower al fresco, truly magic.

We continue north and as we leave Disko bay, the icebergs become more scarce. The fog rolls in that evening as the air temperature drops well below the sea temperature. It all becomes eerie and surreal. The sun is still well present, just hidden behind the ocean steam. Once again, we rely on our eyes and mostly radar to warn us of any drifting bergs. The fog will stay with us as we continue to make our way north.

30-31 July 2023: Illulisat

Mon, 31 Jul 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Illulisat is a very busy fishing harbour and there is a lot of activity all day long. Thindra has been here for a couple of days already and they are waiting for their fuel filters delivery. Pelagic and Skip Novak are also here alongside – an icon in the yachting world and it’s a privilege to exchange a few words.
The colorful little town is very pleasant to walk around, there is definitely a big tourism influence with many tour operators offering all kinds of whale watching and iceberg experience activities. The walk along the shoreline provides a breathtaking view of the floating bergs, all calved from the gigantic and most active Jacobshavn glacier. I take a moment to pause and take it all in while Calin sends the drone out for a bird’s eye view. What an incredible sight. Occasionally, a humpback whale surfaces and sends its blow high in the air before showing off its characteristic fluke. I look around and I see nature in its perfection.
Petter has purchased some halibut from the local fisherman and scored a full bucket of small shrimps out of a large bin of rejected for their unqualifying size, a rare delicacy that we enjoyed with homemade aioli.
The Ilulissat Icefjord center was fascinating, not just for its unique modern construction but also for its incredibly interesting content on ice formation and inuit life in Greenland. 2 hours were barely enough to take it all in. And right by the museum, at the edge of the town, we walked through “dog city”, where all the working huskies are tied up waiting for the winter to arrive. While it seems sad at first glance, it makes sense to keep them tied and away from one another or they would fight to assert themselves as alphas. We have been warned not the pet them – albeit very tempting. They are working dogs rather then pets. Only the puppies are free to roam around and they are much more approachable.
We now have just been told by a not so friendly fisherman that we shouldn’t be here as we are taking the space of a fishing boat. Undoubtedly, sailboats are not so welcome in Greenlandic harbours. Luckily, we are allowed to stay for our last night, we are planning to be off very early in the morning anyway after refuelling.

27-29 July 2023: Passage to Illulisat via Aasiaat

Sat, 29 Jul 2023 00:00:00 +0000

We spent the first night and day tacking in 8-11kts of northerly breeze and relatively flat water. The sailing is pleasant and smooth.

After a quick stop in Aassiat to get more fuel filters, we settle once again in a watch routine of 3 on/6 off. At some point, the thermometer registers a temperature of 0.4 degrees and an additional wool layer is required. Petter is really struggling with the cold both on watch and inside the boat so we compromised in running the heater more than we normally would. I guess Calin and I are now reaping the rewards of the enduring cold while painting the deck this winter in England and we are both able to enjoy our watches on the open deck without feeling cold and feel quite cozy in 15 degrees inside.
Unfortunately, the wind didn’t last long and we find ourselves motoring for the rest of the way in thick fog. In these eery conditions of zero visibility, we rely a lot on our radar to spot icebergs, otherwise very difficult to see in the distance. The trickiest are those small growlers, with too little mass protruding above the water for the radar to pick up. Yet, they can cause drastic damage if hit at any speed. They pop up at the very last minute so it is critical to keep our eyes on the water, close to the wheel if the need arise to urgently swerve. With 100% focus at all time and the impossibility to go down below to make a hot drink or even for a wee, the end of the watch comes as a sweet reward. I find my watches thoroughly enjoyable though and usually time goes by quickly. Sometimes I listen to an audiobook, sometimes I just enjoy the here and now in the elements and I feel privileged to experience this part of the world that very few people do.

The fog is really thick as we approach Illulisat and all 3 of us are on deck, eyes peeled. Growlers and Icebergs are numerous and small fishing runabout boats with no AIS pop out of nowhere. Slow speed and attention is key. It is late afternoon, the sun is trying to burn through the fog but instead brings an surreal light to an already spooky setting. We idle for a while to get some fish and between Petter and I, the catch is highly successful – with the biggest cod I ever caught (a greedy one with 7 little fishes in its stomach!)

27 July 2023: Super colorful Sisimiut

Thu, 27 Jul 2023 00:00:00 +0000

It was a quick stop but so well worth it! Sisiumiut is a very cute and colorful village, very typical of Greenland. Once again, we tie up alongside a large fishingboat (2 actually) and head for a yearned shower at the Seaman’s hotel. Somehow we let ourselves be convinced to pay the equivalent of 5 euro for a hot wash that we could have for free in the comfort of our boat.

Feeling clean and renewed, we wander around the picturesque streets, occasionally bumping into cruiseship passengers in town for a few hours. Dotted with colorful houses, the town has a really nice vibe and once again, we have found the locals super friendly and helpful.
By the time we get back, Walkabout has tied up alongside Seabelle. After a beer in the cockpit, enjoying the warmth of the sun, I induldge in a power nap before dinner. We are heading out again tonight to catch the little wind we’ll have to Aassiat.