01 August 2023: the magic of Disko bay

No word can describe the magic of this landscape. Under a deep blue sky and warming sunshine, we left Ilulissat early this morning and following the waterway between Disko island and the mainland north of Ilulissat, we weave our way through hundred of icebergs of all sizes and shapes all carved by Ilulissat glacier. There is absolutely no wind and we have to motor unfortunately. On the positive side, the reflection of icebergs is out of this world. Standing on the bow, I am submerged by all this beauty, noting every shade of blue in the ice, every shadow in the sculpted edges, every ripple in the water. I watch silently as we glide through the morning stillness, taking it all in with watery eyes and a deep sense of happiness. This is exactly what I had dreamt of seeing with my own eyes. Occasionally, a curious seal pops its heads out of the water right beside us. A little further, dozens of excited seabirds flap and swoop above an equally active pod of seals – a characteristic sign of a feeding. So much life around us that somewhat contrast with the baren purity of the ice.

With the engine going, we benefit from real hot water and surrounded by icebergs, I can’t think of a better setting for a shower al fresco, truly magic.

We continue north and as we leave Disko bay, the icebergs become more scarce. The fog rolls in that evening as the air temperature drops well below the sea temperature. It all becomes eerie and surreal. The sun is still well present, just hidden behind the ocean steam. Once again, we rely on our eyes and mostly radar to warn us of any drifting bergs. The fog will stay with us as we continue to make our way north.

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