After tacking into 7 to 25 knots, we are the first to arrive at the former trading post of Fort Ross, right at the start of the Bellot strait. One by one, after following and passing each other for 2 days, the sailing fleet drops anchor in front of the old Hudson Bay hut. It is 10pm and the nights are getting darker by the day although we still have a faint twilight throughout the night. established in 1937 and abandoned 11 years later. Along with Caprivi who arrived right after us, we explore the derelict post manager house nearby, keeping an eye out for possible polar bears (it turns out one was spotted right after we left!). Fort Ross was the last trading post established by the giant Hudson Bay company in 1937 and was abandoned 11 years later. Its store is now a hut well appreciated by NWP sailors and many have left their marks on the walls and wooden posts. With bunk beds and emergency food, it is regularly used today by hardy hunters. Soon, Thindra then Sentijn joins us in the hut and all take part around the table for a mighty taste of a bottle of rum, kindly brought by Caprivi. And right here in Fort Ross, at 11pm on August 22nd, it is a fine reunion of mighty sailors telling tales of our last passage and worries to be.
The plan was to stay the night to catch up on much needed sleep and leave in the morning. But a last look at the weather forecast and tide radically reverses this rejoicing fantasy and the decision is made to leave within the hour. Utterly exhausted, and slightly drowsy from the rum, we forcibly gather the reminder of energy to lift up the anchor and get under way again, right behind Thindra. Caprivi and Sentijn decide against leaving right away and will catch up with us down the line.
The current can be fierce in the Bellot strait, reaching 8 knots and changing direction with the tide, sometimes twirling chaotically. Today, the strongest favourable current was 4 knots at Macpie Rock and although it was choked with ice a couple of weeks ago, it is completely clear today and our eyes can remained peeled on the shoreline for possible polar bears, which are often spotted here. Sadly, we don’t get to see any (Caprivi will get to spot 7 there the next day, not fair!). At 4am, my banana bread comes out hot from the oven, an irresistible celebration treat if I may say as we pass point Zenith, the most northern point for the American continent.
Determined to see polar bears as a lot of the other cruisers seem to have observed, we proceed to detour via Prince of Wales Island where Uggly Betty saw heaps of wildlife. Sadly, no bear, no belugas, no animals for us. We just don’t seem to be in the right place at the right time, sometimes that’s how the wildlife cookie rolls. And after a couple of hours of idling looking at rocks, through fog at times, we proceed on towards Cambridge Bay.