Today is project day and prepping for departure to iceland. With the last provisions onboard, the laundry is done (by hand) and hung on the lifelines in the sun. We have moved Seabelle to the dock so we can enjoy unlimited water and a dock to grind. Today I am washing the salty windows and applying a film of Rainex to deter water drops (sea or rain) from the sticking to the Perspex. Dan is adding hinges to our future aluminium cockpit table and Calin put away the dinghy for the long passage, reshuffling lockers to maximise space.

As I polish the windows, I reflect back on the last few days. If you ask me to summarize the Faroe Islands in 2 words, I would probably say “Fucking Spectacular!”. Sure, we’ve been blessed with 5 days of sunshine and blue skies and I never imagine that I would be hiking in shorts and getting a tan here. Under these circumstances, the travel around the islands can only be enjoyable. The scenery is breathtaking, no matter where you go. The sheer cliffs, the grand size of the mountains, the wide open spaces, the brightness of the green grass despite the lack of trees, all the beauty of the nature is backed by the acute charm of the traditional grass roofed dwellings. With super friendly and trusting people, all so open to conversations, the country feels extremely safe – perhaps I would claim the safest place I’ve been to. Or so it feels. But I must admit this all too idyllic picture is somewhat stained after last night’s harrowing experience. I still see the lines of butchered pilot whales, unnecessarily slaughtered in numbers for dried protein snacks. A hard fact to digest but if I try not to let these images ruin my view of the island, it has been quite a magic stop.