We are leaving the sunny Faroes behind us, sailing alongside Mykenes and taking in full view the colonies of fulmars perched on the rocks. Soon enough we are in the open Atlantic with a 1m swell on our bum. With the genoa poled out, we let ourselves be pushed wing on wing on a westerly course. Dan has taken sea sickness pills and is faring much better than the previous passage. We are settling once again in 3 hours watch routine. The blue sky has vanished and the low clouds and slight drizzle bring a tint of misery to the horizon. Still a pleasant, uneventful even tame passage – and I’m grateful for that. Winds can be quite horrendous here and I can only imagine how disturbed the sea could be.

The abundance of sea birds has dwindled dramatically since we left the Faroes, except for the occasional Fulmar who swoops around us joyfully. After 3 days at sea, we encounter a large pod of Pilot whales accompanied with dolphins. What a joy to sea them in the ocean, alive and well, doing the things that pilot whales are supposed to do! Still marked by the massacre witnessed a few days ago, we appreciate them all the more. 

We finally arrive in Vestmannaeyjar on the south coast of Iceland in the morning of the 20th and raft alongside a lovely french family and their steel boat Jubile. Our first impression of the Icelandics is given by a not very welcoming harbourmaster but we'll try not generalize. Hopefully, the rest of Icelandics are more friendly.  After clearing customs, we head to the swimming pool mostly to enjoy an unlimited hot shower but also 40 lengths of exercise, some hot pools and a revitalising steam sauna/cold bath. We'll sleep well tonight!