12th June 2023 (Day 29): Karlsoy, a lighthouse amongst the green

Road trip across the feroan islands!

All I see is green as I close my eyes tonight, exhausted from the hike, the fresh air and all the awe felt today. We rented a car from the company located very handily on the quay in Midvagur. This must be  the most laid back car rental place in the world. We booked online last night and only a small deposit was required to secure the booking. As we turn up to collect the car, we are given the key to a clean and reasonably new skoda, no question asked, no ID checked, no credit card requested. Just a warm smile and off we go on into the wide open spaces. How refreshing!

From Vagur, we drive through the next islands of Streymoy and Esturoy via very scenic roads and countless tunnels, both through mountains as well as under the sea. The Eysturoyartunnilin is the  longest underwater tunnel in the Faroes with its impressive 11km length and 189m under the water at its deepest. More famously, it boasts the first and only roundabout sub sea!

We decide to leave the car parked in Klarksvik and take a ferry to Karlsoy where a stunning 6km hike to the lighthouse awaits. Once again, the friendly colored sheep and their fluffy lambs graze along our way, completely oblivious of our presence. The landscape is breathtaking as we follow the narrow track towards the end of the world. The gargantuan green massifs surrounding  us drop straight  into ocean like vertical sheets. We are incredibly lucky with the weather as the sun shines amidst a cloudless blue sky. We are stunned by how green and vibrant the grass is, almost all the way to the top of the mountains. However green the landscape may be, there is not a single tree in sight. It is raw, sheer, gigantic and incredibly spectacular. At the end of the track is a small isolated lighthouse overlooking impressive rockwalls and the tombstone of James Bond, who met his fate at this precise location in No Time to Die. I like his epitaph: "The proper function of man is to live, not to exist." Indeed James.

Giving our legs a little break, we drive around to the most northern settlement, Videroy, supposedly boast the highest cliff straight up from the sea. With the sun gently setting and turning the mountains to gold, the drive is thoroughly enjoyable. We pass through colorful villages with traditional thatched roofs and a field of Highland cows, the only cows we’ve seen so far.

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