As we heave anchor mid morning, the chain is covered with kelp – mostly the fine hair type, which is rather tedious to remove. After 20mins of patiently “unhooking” the tangled seaweed, we motor again further north. The wind hasn’t been on our side. It seems either too much, not enough, or right in the direction we want to go. Icebergs are still a hazard and even with our wonderful Raymarine autopilot, we must keep our focus ahead.

By 1700 we are moored at Arsuk, a colorful little village of under 100 inhabitants, very typical of Greenland. Everything is closed and all is quiet. We enjoy a gentle stroll around the village to stretch our legs but we soon have to retreat to the boat, defeated by giant and hungry mosquitoes. A local told us of a good spot for seatrout fishing (he just caught a small dozen) so we decide to anchor there for the night. But, you guessed it, no luck again. Fortunatly, I may have run out of meat, but I still have plenty of vegetables and I enjoy getting creative with few ingredients.